Question 1

Why does my well water smell like rotten eggs?

Accepted Answer

The rotten egg smell is caused by hydrogen sulfide gas. There are three possible sources: dissolved hydrogen sulfide in the groundwater itself, sulfur bacteria colonizing the well or pipes, or sulfur bacteria in the water heater tank. If the smell is only from hot water, the water heater is the primary source. If it affects cold water too, the well or groundwater is the source. Each source requires a different treatment approach — a water test is the first step.

Question 2

What causes orange or rust-colored water from my well?

Accepted Answer

Orange or rust-colored water is caused by iron in the water. Iron is extremely common in Southern Maryland well water. There are two forms: dissolved ferrous iron (clear when drawn, turns orange on contact with air) and particulate ferric iron (already orange when drawn). The correct treatment depends on which form is present — a water test determines this. Iron filters, oxidation systems, and water softeners are all used depending on the iron type and concentration.

Question 3

What is iron bacteria and how do I get rid of it?

Accepted Answer

Iron bacteria are microorganisms that feed on dissolved iron and produce a thick orange or rust-colored slime — most visibly inside the toilet tank. They are not a direct health threat but cause staining, clogged pipes, and fouled water treatment equipment. Iron bacteria are difficult to eliminate completely because they are embedded in a biofilm that resists standard treatment. Effective control requires well shock chlorination combined with continuous oxidation treatment and proper filtration.

Question 4

How often should I test my well water?

Accepted Answer

Maryland health authorities recommend testing well water annually for bacteria and nitrates at minimum. A comprehensive panel (iron, hardness, pH, manganese, bacteria, turbidity) should be performed every 3–5 years. Test immediately after any well service, flooding, or change in water color, taste, or odor. If you are buying a home with well water, a comprehensive test should be part of the home inspection.

Question 5

What does blue-green staining on my fixtures mean?

Accepted Answer

Blue-green staining on sinks, tubs, and fixtures is caused by copper corrosion — acidic water (low pH) is dissolving the copper from your pipes. This is a very common problem in Calvert County and Anne Arundel County where well water tends to be acidic. Beyond the staining, acidic water causes pinhole leaks in copper pipes over time. An acid neutralizer corrects the pH and stops the corrosion. If you have had multiple pinhole leaks, the underlying water chemistry needs to be addressed.

Question 6

What is the correct order to install water treatment equipment?

Accepted Answer

Order matters enormously. Installing components out of sequence reduces effectiveness and can damage equipment. The correct sequence is: (1) sediment pre-filter, (2) acid neutralizer if pH is low, (3) oxidation injection if needed for iron/bacteria, (4) iron/manganese filter, (5) water softener, (6) carbon filter, (7) UV disinfection system, (8) reverse osmosis at the drinking water tap. We never recommend equipment without testing your water first.

Question 7

Why do I have no water but the pump seems to be running?

Accepted Answer

If the pump runs but produces no water, the most common causes are: the well has run dry (pump drawing faster than the well recharges), the pump impellers are worn and no longer moving water, the check valve has failed, or there is a break in the drop pipe. A pressure gauge that reads zero while the pump runs is a strong indicator. Call Deep Dive Plumbing Maryland at (443) 440-0632 for diagnosis.

Question 8

Why does my well pump turn on and off every few seconds?

Accepted Answer

Short-cycling — the pump turning on and off rapidly — is almost always caused by a failed pressure tank bladder. When the bladder fails, the tank loses its air cushion and fills completely with water. The pump then turns on the moment any water is used, runs briefly, shuts off, and immediately turns on again. This can happen hundreds of times per day and will destroy the pump motor within weeks to months. Replace the pressure tank immediately.

Question 9

How long does a well pump last?

Accepted Answer

Submersible well pumps typically last 10–15 years under good conditions. In Southern Maryland well water homes with high iron, abrasive sediment, or acidic water and no water treatment, pumps often fail in 6–10 years. Short-cycling from a failed pressure tank is the leading cause of premature pump failure. With proper water treatment, correct sizing, and annual maintenance, a quality pump can last 15+ years.

Question 10

Why is my water pressure low throughout the entire house?

Accepted Answer

Whole-house low pressure on a well system is usually caused by: a failing well pump (worn impellers, low motor output), a pressure tank that has lost its air charge, a pressure switch set too low, a partially closed valve, or a significant leak in the system. A pressure gauge at the pressure tank will tell you if the system is maintaining pressure. If pressure drops steadily when water is running, the pump is likely the issue.

Question 11

Why do my drains back up only when it rains?

Accepted Answer

Drain backups that occur specifically during or after heavy rain indicate either root intrusion in the sewer line (roots create a partial blockage that becomes full when stormwater adds to the flow) or a sewer line belly (a low spot where sewage pools). A sewer camera inspection identifies the exact cause. This problem will worsen over time without treatment.

Question 12

Why does my drain keep backing up after being snaked?

Accepted Answer

If your drain backs up repeatedly after snaking, snaking is not solving the underlying problem. The most common causes are root intrusion (roots grow back), grease buildup on pipe walls (snaking punches through but doesn't clean the walls), or a partial pipe collapse. A camera inspection identifies the cause, and hydro jetting is often the appropriate treatment for recurring backups.

Question 13

What is hydro jetting and when do I need it?

Accepted Answer

Hydro jetting uses high-pressure water (2,000–4,000 PSI) to scour the entire interior of a drain pipe — removing grease, scale, and root tendrils completely. Unlike snaking, which only punches through a blockage, hydro jetting cleans the pipe walls. It is appropriate for recurring drain backups, grease-laden kitchen drains, and any drain that has been snaked multiple times without lasting results. We always perform a camera inspection before hydro jetting.

Question 14

What should I never flush down the toilet?

Accepted Answer

"Flushable" wipes (they are not flushable — they do not break down), feminine hygiene products, paper towels, cotton balls and swabs, dental floss, medications, cat litter, and any non-toilet-paper paper product. These items cause blockages in home drain lines and municipal sewer systems. Only human waste and toilet paper should be flushed.

Question 15

How do I know if my sewer line needs to be replaced?

Accepted Answer

A sewer camera inspection is the only definitive way to assess sewer line condition. Signs that replacement may be needed: the pipe is cast iron or clay and over 40 years old, multiple sections show root intrusion or corrosion, there are offset joints or a collapsed section, or you have had recurring backups despite repeated cleaning. We provide honest assessments — we will tell you if repair is sufficient or if replacement is the better long-term investment.

Question 16

Why does my hot water smell like rotten eggs?

Accepted Answer

Hot water that smells like rotten eggs is almost always caused by sulfur bacteria in the water heater tank. The warm, low-oxygen environment is ideal for sulfate-reducing bacteria, which produce hydrogen sulfide gas. The magnesium anode rod in most water heaters reacts with sulfur bacteria to produce more hydrogen sulfide. Replacing the anode with an aluminum/zinc anode reduces the smell. The underlying bacteria in the water supply also needs to be addressed with UV disinfection or chlorination.

Question 17

Why is my water heater making rumbling or popping sounds?

Accepted Answer

Rumbling and popping sounds are caused by scale (mineral deposits from hard water) that has built up on the bottom of the tank and on the heating elements. As water heats, the scale cracks and pops. This indicates significant scale buildup, which reduces efficiency and accelerates corrosion. A sediment flush can help if caught early, but in many cases the scale buildup indicates the tank is nearing end of life.

Question 18

How long does a water heater last?

Accepted Answer

A standard tank water heater typically lasts 8–12 years. In Southern Maryland well water homes with hard or acidic water and no water treatment, water heaters often fail in 6–8 years. With a water softener and proper water treatment, a quality water heater can last 12–15 years. Tankless water heaters last 20+ years with proper maintenance. Annual anode rod inspection and sediment flushing extend tank life significantly.

Question 19

Do I need an expansion tank on my water heater?

Accepted Answer

Maryland plumbing code requires a thermal expansion tank on all water heaters installed on closed plumbing systems — any system with a backflow preventer, pressure reducing valve, or check valve. Without an expansion tank, thermal expansion of heated water has nowhere to go, causing the pressure relief valve to drip repeatedly and accelerating wear on all plumbing fixtures. Deep Dive Plumbing Maryland installs expansion tanks on every applicable installation.

Question 20

How do I know if I have a hidden water leak?

Accepted Answer

The most reliable test: turn off all water in the home (including the ice maker and irrigation), then watch the water meter for 15 minutes. If the meter moves, you have a leak. Other signs: unexplained water bill increase, sound of running water when everything is off, wet spots on walls or ceilings, warm spots on the floor, or mold growth with no visible moisture source.

Question 21

What is a slab leak?

Accepted Answer

A slab leak is a leak in a water supply or drain pipe that runs under the concrete foundation of your home. Signs include a warm spot on the floor (hot water line), the sound of running water under the floor when everything is off, an unexplained water bill increase, and in severe cases, water seeping up through the floor. Slab leaks are common in Southern Maryland homes with copper pipes under the slab, especially where well water is acidic.

Question 22

What causes pinhole leaks in copper pipes?

Accepted Answer

Pinhole leaks in copper pipes are most commonly caused by acidic water (low pH) that slowly corrodes the copper from the inside. This is very common in Calvert County and Anne Arundel County where well water tends to be acidic. If you have had multiple pinhole leaks in different locations, the underlying water chemistry needs to be addressed — an acid neutralizer for well water — otherwise the leaks will continue.

Question 23

What should I do if a pipe bursts?

Accepted Answer

Shut off the main water supply immediately — this is the single most important action. For city water, the shutoff is near the meter. For well water, shut off at the pressure tank or turn off the pump breaker. Then call Deep Dive Plumbing Maryland at (443) 440-0632. While you wait, move valuables away from the water and document the damage with photos for your insurance claim.

Question 24

What should I do if sewage is backing up into my home?

Accepted Answer

Stop using all water in the home immediately — every flush and every drain adds to the backup. Do not use toilets, sinks, showers, or the washing machine. Call Deep Dive Plumbing Maryland at (443) 440-0632. Sewage is a health hazard — avoid contact and keep children and pets away from the affected area.

Question 25

Do you charge extra for emergency calls at night or on weekends?

Accepted Answer

Deep Dive Plumbing Maryland provides 24/7 emergency service. We are transparent about our pricing — call (443) 440-0632 and we will give you honest information about emergency service rates before we dispatch. We do not believe in surprise charges.

Question 26

What is the best water filtration system for Maryland well water?

Accepted Answer

There is no single "best" system — the right system depends entirely on what is in your water. Maryland well water commonly contains iron, hardness, low pH, manganese, and sometimes bacteria. A comprehensive water test is the only way to design an effective treatment system. Common solutions for Southern Maryland well water include: an acid neutralizer for low pH, an iron filter for iron and manganese, a water softener for hardness, a UV system for bacteria, and a reverse osmosis system at the drinking water tap for nitrates and dissolved solids. The order of installation matters as much as which components you choose.

Question 27

How often should water filtration systems be serviced?

Accepted Answer

Service intervals vary by system type. Sediment pre-filters: every 3–6 months depending on turbidity. Water softeners: check salt level monthly, full service annually. Iron filters: backwash automatically, but media should be inspected every 3–5 years. Acid neutralizers: calcite media needs to be replenished every 1–3 years depending on water acidity and flow. UV systems: replace the UV lamp annually regardless of hours — UV output degrades over time even if the lamp still glows. Reverse osmosis membranes: every 2–3 years. We offer annual service plans for all water treatment systems.

Question 28

What causes black slime in drains and on faucet aerators?

Accepted Answer

Black slime in drains and on faucet aerators is almost always caused by manganese bacteria — microorganisms that feed on dissolved manganese in the water, similar to how iron bacteria feed on iron. Manganese is common in Southern Maryland well water, especially in deeper aquifers. The slime is a biofilm produced by these bacteria. Treatment requires addressing the manganese in the water supply — a greensand filter or catalytic carbon filter removes dissolved manganese, and a UV system controls the bacteria. Cleaning the aerators and drains without treating the water source will result in the slime returning within weeks.

Question 29

What causes sediment or grit in my well water?

Accepted Answer

Sediment and grit in well water can come from several sources: sand or silt infiltrating the well through a damaged casing or screen, iron oxide particles (rust) from corroding pipes or the well casing itself, calcium carbonate particles from scale buildup breaking loose, or disturbed sediment from a pump that is drawing the well down too fast. A sediment filter at the point of entry protects all downstream equipment. However, if the sediment is coming from a damaged well casing or screen, the well itself needs to be inspected and repaired.

Question 30

What is reverse osmosis and do I need it?

Accepted Answer

Reverse osmosis (RO) is a point-of-use water treatment technology that forces water through a semi-permeable membrane, removing dissolved solids, nitrates, heavy metals, fluoride, and most contaminants to produce very pure drinking water. RO is typically installed under the kitchen sink and serves the drinking water tap and refrigerator. It is not a whole-house system — it produces water slowly and is not practical for bathing or laundry. You need RO if your water test shows elevated nitrates (a health concern for infants), high total dissolved solids, or if you want the highest quality drinking water. It is not necessary for everyone.

Question 31

What is a UV water purification system and how does it work?

Accepted Answer

A UV (ultraviolet) water purification system exposes water to UV light at a specific wavelength (254 nm) that destroys the DNA of bacteria, viruses, and other microorganisms, preventing them from reproducing. UV systems do not add chemicals to the water and do not change the taste or odor. They are highly effective against coliform bacteria, E. coli, and most waterborne pathogens. Critical requirement: the water must be clear before reaching the UV lamp — turbidity, iron, and manganese shield microorganisms from the UV light. UV systems must always be installed after all filtration. The UV lamp must be replaced annually.

Question 32

Why does my water softener seem to stop working?

Accepted Answer

The most common reasons a water softener stops softening: the salt tank is empty or has a salt bridge (a hard crust that forms over the brine, preventing salt from dissolving), the resin bed is fouled with iron (iron-laden water destroys softener resin over time — an iron filter must be installed before the softener), the control valve has failed, or the system is undersized for household demand. If you have high iron in your water and no iron filter upstream of the softener, the resin bed will need to be replaced or cleaned with a resin cleaner.

Question 33

What causes sewer odors inside the home with no visible backup?

Accepted Answer

Sewer odors inside the home without a visible backup are almost always caused by a dry P-trap. Every drain in your home has a P-trap — a curved section of pipe that holds water, creating a seal that blocks sewer gas from entering the home. If a drain is not used regularly (a basement floor drain, a guest bathroom sink), the water in the P-trap evaporates and sewer gas enters the home. Run water in all drains monthly to keep P-traps full. If the smell persists after filling all P-traps, there may be a cracked vent pipe or a failed wax ring under a toilet.

Question 34

Why does my toilet keep running?

Accepted Answer

A constantly running toilet is almost always caused by one of three things: a worn flapper that does not seal properly (the most common cause — water leaks from the tank into the bowl continuously), a float set too high (water overflows into the overflow tube), or a faulty fill valve. A running toilet can waste 200 gallons of water per day. The fix is usually inexpensive — a new flapper costs a few dollars. If the toilet is more than 10–15 years old and has had multiple issues, replacement is often more cost-effective than repeated repairs.

Question 35

What causes low hot water pressure but normal cold water pressure?

Accepted Answer

Low hot water pressure with normal cold pressure almost always indicates a problem at or inside the water heater. The most common causes: sediment buildup inside the tank restricting the outlet, a partially closed shutoff valve on the hot water outlet, a failing dip tube (the plastic tube that directs cold water to the bottom of the tank — when it breaks, cold and hot water mix at the top, reducing effective hot water pressure and temperature), or a kinked flexible connector. This is a common sign that a water heater needs service or is nearing end of life.

Question 36

How do I know where my main water shutoff is?

Accepted Answer

For homes on city water, the main shutoff is typically near the water meter — either in the basement, crawl space, or utility room near where the water line enters the home. For well water homes, the main shutoff is at the pressure tank — usually in the basement, utility room, or crawl space. There is also a breaker for the well pump in the electrical panel. Every adult in the household should know where both shutoffs are before an emergency occurs. If you cannot locate your shutoff, call us — we will find it and label it clearly.

Question 37

What is a tankless water heater and is it right for my home?

Accepted Answer

A tankless (on-demand) water heater heats water only when you need it — there is no storage tank and no standby heat loss. Benefits: unlimited hot water, longer lifespan (20+ years vs. 8–12 for tank units), energy savings of 15–30% for most households, and space savings. Considerations: higher upfront cost, may require gas line or electrical upgrades, and hard water scale can damage the heat exchanger without proper water treatment. Tankless water heaters are an excellent choice for most Southern Maryland homes — but the water quality must be addressed first. We assess your water chemistry and home before recommending tankless.

Plumbing & Water Treatment FAQ

Well Water & Water Quality

Well Pumps & Pressure

Drains & Sewers

Water Heaters

Leak Detection

Emergency Plumbing

Water Filtration & Treatment

Plumbing Repairs & Maintenance

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