Well Pump Repair
Southern Maryland

Phone Triage Before We Arrive

When you call, we ask targeted questions to narrow the likely cause before we leave the shop. Is the breaker tripped? Is the pressure gauge reading zero or stuck? Did the problem start suddenly or gradually? This lets us load the right parts and often cuts diagnostic time in half on arrival.

Full Electrical System Check — Before Touching the Pump

The most expensive mistake in well pump service is pulling a pump that does not need to come out. We always start at the electrical panel and work toward the pump:

• Breaker condition and amperage rating vs. pump draw
• Pressure switch contacts — pitted or burned contacts cause intermittent failures
• Capacitor test — a weak start capacitor is a common cause of a pump that hums but will not start
• Control box output voltage (for 3-wire submersible pumps)
• Wire insulation resistance with a megohmmeter — detects motor winding breakdown before it becomes a full failure
• Voltage drop across the pump circuit under load

Pressure Tank Evaluation

A failed pressure tank is the single most common cause of pump short-cycling and premature motor burnout. We test the tank's air pre-charge pressure (should be 2 PSI below the cut-in pressure) and check for a waterlogged bladder by tapping the tank and listening for the water/air boundary. A tank that is all water — no air cushion — forces the pump to cycle on and off dozens of times per hour instead of a few times per day. We replace failed tanks same-day in most cases.

Pump Performance and Amp Draw Test

If the electrical system checks out, we measure the pump's running amp draw and compare it to the nameplate rating. An amp draw that is too high indicates a worn motor or a pump fighting against a restriction. An amp draw that is too low can indicate a pump that has lost its impeller or is cavitating due to low well yield. Either reading tells us whether the pump can be saved or needs replacement.

Well Yield Assessment (If Pump Must Be Pulled)

Before we pull the pump, we measure the static water level in the well using a well sounder. After pulling, we measure the depth to the pump and the depth to the bottom of the well. This gives us the well's available drawdown — the actual usable water column. A well with only 10 feet of drawdown cannot support a standard 1 HP pump running at full capacity. Installing the wrong pump in a low-yield well guarantees it will fail again. We size the replacement pump to the well, not to a price point.

Water Quality Check

High iron content (above 0.3 mg/L) clogs pump screens and coats motor windings with iron deposits over time. We test iron levels, pH, and hardness on every pump replacement. If iron is elevated, we discuss treatment options — because a new pump in untreated high-iron water will have a shortened lifespan. We also check for signs of iron bacteria, which produces a reddish-brown slime that can foul the pump and the pressure tank.

Pump Saver Installation on Every Replacement

Every well pump we install receives a Pump Saver surge and dry-run protection device. The Pump Saver monitors voltage, current, and run time. It shuts the pump down automatically if it detects a dry-run condition (well running low), a voltage surge, or a locked rotor. This single device is the most effective way to extend pump life in Southern Maryland's variable-yield wells.

Post-Repair System Verification

Before we leave, we run the system through a full pressure cycle and verify: cut-in and cut-out pressures are correct, pump amp draw is within spec, pressure tank pre-charge is set properly, all fittings are leak-free, and water runs clear at the nearest faucet. We document the completed work and provide you with a written record of the pump model, depth, and settings for future reference.