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Emergency Plumbing·7 min read

Plumbing Emergency Checklist: What to Do in the First 15 Minutes

A plumbing emergency is measured in minutes. A burst pipe can release 8–10 gallons of water per minute — that's 600 gallons in an hour, enough to destroy flooring, drywall, insulation, and personal property throughout multiple rooms. A sewer backup can spread raw sewage across your basement floor in under an hour. The first 15 minutes of a plumbing emergency determine whether you're dealing with a minor repair or a major restoration project. Here's exactly what to do.

Step 1: Identify the Emergency Type (30 Seconds)

Before you do anything else, identify what type of emergency you're dealing with. Each type requires a different immediate response, and taking the wrong action first can make things worse.

  • Burst or leaking pipe with active water flow → Shut off water immediately. Every second counts.
  • Sewer backup (sewage coming up through drains) → Stop using all water in the house. Do not flush. Do not run any drain.
  • No water at all → Check the circuit breaker (well pump), check the main shutoff valve, check for frozen pipes in winter.
  • Gas smell → Leave the building immediately. Do not turn any switches on or off. Call 911 and your gas company from outside.
  • Water heater leaking → Shut off the cold water supply to the heater, then shut off the gas or electricity to the heater.

The gas smell scenario is the only one where you should leave before doing anything else. For all other plumbing emergencies, the priority is stopping the water flow or preventing additional sewage backup.

Step 2: Know Your Shutoffs BEFORE an Emergency

This is the most important section of this entire article — and the one that requires action before an emergency happens, not during one. In a plumbing emergency, you will not have time to search for shutoff valves. You need to know where they are before the water starts flowing.

Main water shutoff: This valve shuts off all water to the entire house. Its location varies: in homes with basements, it's usually on the wall where the water line enters the house. In homes with crawl spaces, it may be in the crawl space or in a utility room. In slab-on-grade homes, it may be outside near the foundation or at the meter. Every adult in the household should know exactly where this valve is and confirm that it turns freely. A main shutoff that hasn't been operated in years may be stuck — find out now, not during an emergency. Our guide to the whole-house water shutoff covers locations and operation in detail.

Individual fixture shutoffs: Every toilet has a shutoff valve on the supply line behind or below the tank. Every sink has shutoff valves under the cabinet. The washing machine has shutoffs behind it. These allow you to isolate a single fixture without shutting off water to the entire house — useful when the problem is localized to one fixture.

Water heater shutoff: The cold water supply valve is located on top of the water heater on the cold water inlet pipe. Turning this off stops water from entering the tank. There's also a gas shutoff (for gas heaters) or a circuit breaker (for electric heaters) that shuts off the heat source.

Well pump shutoff: If your home uses well water, the well pump is controlled by a circuit breaker in your electrical panel. Label this breaker clearly — "WELL PUMP" — so you can find it instantly in an emergency. Shutting off the well pump stops all water flow to the house.

Gas main shutoff: Located at the gas meter, the main gas shutoff requires a wrench to operate. Keep a wrench near the meter. Note that once you shut off the gas main, the gas company must restore service — don't shut it off unless you smell gas or have a confirmed gas leak.

Take 15 minutes this week to locate all of these shutoffs, confirm they operate freely, and make sure every adult in your household knows where they are. This preparation is worth more than any other emergency planning you can do.

The 15-Minute Checklist: Burst or Leaking Pipe

A burst pipe is a race against water damage. Here's the minute-by-minute response:

Min 1:Shut off the main water supply. If you know which fixture shutoff is closest to the break, use that first — but don't spend more than 15 seconds looking for it. Go straight to the main shutoff if you're not sure.
Min 2:Turn on the lowest faucet in the house (usually a basement utility sink or outdoor hose bib) to drain remaining water from the pipes. This reduces the total water that will flow from the break.
Min 3:Shut off the water heater. If the tank continues to heat with no water supply, the heating element can burn out (electric) or the tank can be damaged (gas). Turn off the gas supply or circuit breaker.
Min 4–5:Move electronics, valuables, and important documents away from standing water. Unplug anything electrical near the water. Do not use electrical appliances in or near standing water.
Min 6–10:Place towels, buckets, or plastic sheeting to contain and redirect water away from walls, flooring, and furniture. Open cabinets under sinks to allow wet areas to dry. If water is near electrical panels or outlets, do not enter the area — call an electrician.
Min 11–15:Call your emergency plumber. Document the damage with photos and video for your insurance claim. Call your insurance company to report the claim — most policies require prompt notification.

Our emergency plumbing service is available 24/7 throughout Calvert and Anne Arundel County. Call (443) 440-0632.

The 15-Minute Checklist: Sewer Backup

A sewer backup is a health emergency as well as a plumbing emergency. Raw sewage contains E. coli, hepatitis A, and other pathogens. Here's the response:

Min 1:Stop using ALL water in the house immediately. Every flush, every drain, every faucet adds more water to the backed-up system and pushes more sewage into your home. This is the single most important action.
Min 2:Do not enter standing sewage water without protective gear (rubber boots, gloves, eye protection). Sewage contains dangerous pathogens. If the backup is extensive, stay out of the affected area entirely.
Min 3–5:Open windows and doors for ventilation. Sewer gas (hydrogen sulfide, methane) can accumulate in enclosed spaces and is both toxic and potentially flammable at high concentrations.
Min 6–10:If it's safe to do so (no standing sewage in the path), move valuables out of the basement. Document everything with photos before moving anything — your insurance company will need documentation of the damage.
Min 11–15:Call your emergency plumber. Call your insurance company. Do not attempt to clean up sewage yourself without proper protective equipment and disinfection — professional remediation is required for health safety.

Our article on sewer backup prevention covers how to avoid this situation in the first place. For understanding what caused the backup, see our guide to sewer backup causes.

The 15-Minute Checklist: No Water (Well System)

Sudden loss of water in a home on well water is almost always an electrical or mechanical issue with the well pump or pressure system. Here's how to diagnose it quickly:

Min 1:Check the circuit breaker for the well pump. A tripped breaker is the most common cause of sudden water loss. Reset it once. If it trips again immediately, there's an electrical fault — do not keep resetting it.
Min 2:Check the pressure gauge on the pressure tank (usually near the tank in the basement or utility room). Normal operating pressure is 40–60 PSI. A reading of zero indicates the pump is not running or the tank has failed.
Min 3:Check the pressure switch (the small box mounted on the pipe near the pressure tank). Some have a manual reset button. If the contacts are burned or the switch is visibly damaged, it needs replacement.
Min 4–10:If the breaker is not tripped, the pressure reads zero, and there's no obvious switch issue, the pump has likely failed. Do not repeatedly cycle the breaker — if the pump motor is burned out, cycling power can cause further damage.
Min 11–15:Call your plumber. Well pump failure requires professional diagnosis and replacement. Our article on well pump not turning on covers the full diagnostic process.

The 15-Minute Checklist: Water Heater Leaking

A leaking water heater can release significant water volume quickly, especially if the tank has failed catastrophically. Here's the response:

Min 1:Shut off the cold water supply to the heater. The cold water inlet valve is located on top of the heater on the cold water pipe (usually the right side). Turn it clockwise to close.
Min 2:Shut off the heat source. For gas heaters, turn the gas control valve to "Pilot" or "Off." For electric heaters, turn off the circuit breaker for the water heater.
Min 3–5:Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank. Route the hose to a floor drain, outside, or into buckets. Open a hot water faucet somewhere in the house to allow air into the tank so it drains properly.
Min 6–10:Open the drain valve to begin draining the tank. A standard 50-gallon tank takes 20–30 minutes to drain fully. While it drains, document the leak location and any water damage with photos.
Min 11–15:Call your plumber. A leaking water heater tank almost always requires replacement — tanks cannot be repaired once the tank itself is leaking. Our guide on when to replace a water heater covers what to expect.

What NOT to Do in a Plumbing Emergency

Knowing what to avoid is as important as knowing what to do. These are the most common mistakes that turn manageable emergencies into major disasters:

  • Don't use electrical appliances near standing water. Water and electricity are a lethal combination. If water is near electrical outlets, panels, or appliances, stay out of the area and call an electrician before a plumber.
  • Don't enter a basement with sewage backup without protective gear. Raw sewage contains dangerous pathogens. Rubber boots, gloves, and eye protection are minimum protection. If the backup is extensive, wait for professional remediation.
  • Don't try to repair a burst pipe yourself while water is still flowing. Shut off the water first. Attempting repairs with water flowing is ineffective and dangerous.
  • Don't ignore a small leak. Small leaks become large leaks. A pinhole leak in a copper pipe can become a full pipe failure within days or weeks. Address leaks immediately.
  • Don't flush the toilet if you suspect a sewer backup. Every flush adds more water to the backed-up system and pushes more sewage into your home.
  • Don't throw away damaged items before your insurance adjuster visits. Document everything with photos and video, then wait for the adjuster's assessment before disposing of damaged property.

True Emergency vs. Can Wait Until Morning

Emergency plumbing service costs significantly more than standard service — typically 50–100% more for after-hours calls. Knowing when a situation genuinely requires an immediate call versus when it can wait until business hours saves money without compromising safety.

Call immediately, any hour:

  • Active flooding from a burst pipe or failed appliance
  • Sewage backup with sewage visible in living areas
  • Gas smell (call 911 and gas company first, then plumber)
  • No water with young children, elderly residents, or medical needs
  • Burst pipe with active water flow that cannot be stopped by shutoff
  • Sewage smell combined with multiple slow drains (imminent backup)

Can wait until business hours:

  • Single slow drain (not multiple drains simultaneously)
  • Dripping faucet
  • Running toilet
  • Low water pressure without complete loss
  • Water heater not producing enough hot water (but not leaking)
  • Minor leak that can be contained with a bucket overnight

Our article on when to call an emergency plumber provides a more detailed decision framework for borderline situations.

Preparing Before an Emergency Happens

The best time to prepare for a plumbing emergency is right now, when there isn't one. Here's a 30-minute preparation checklist that will dramatically improve your response when an emergency does occur:

  • Label all shutoff valves. Use waterproof labels or paint markers. Label the main shutoff, the well pump breaker, the water heater shutoff, and each fixture shutoff. This takes 20 minutes and saves critical time during an emergency.
  • Confirm all shutoffs operate freely. Turn each valve and confirm it moves. A shutoff that hasn't been operated in years may be seized — find out now, not when you need it.
  • Save your plumber's number in your phone. Deep Dive Plumbing Maryland: (443) 440-0632. Available 24/7 for emergencies in Calvert and Anne Arundel County.
  • Review your homeowner's insurance policy. Does it cover water damage from burst pipes? Does it cover sewer backup? (Standard policies often don't — a sewer backup rider is worth adding.)
  • Schedule an annual plumbing inspection. Many plumbing emergencies are preventable. A professional inspection catches deteriorating pipes, failing water heaters, and developing sewer issues before they become emergencies. Our plumbing maintenance checklist covers what should be inspected annually.

After the Emergency: What Comes Next

Once the immediate emergency is under control and the plumber has made the necessary repairs, there are several important follow-up steps:

Document everything before cleanup. Photograph and video all damage before any cleanup begins. Include wide shots showing the extent of the damage and close-ups of specific damage points. This documentation is essential for your insurance claim.

Call your insurance company within 24 hours. Most policies require prompt notification of a claim. Delayed notification can complicate or invalidate a claim. Have your policy number ready and be prepared to describe the cause and extent of the damage.

Don't throw away damaged items until the adjuster visits. The insurance adjuster needs to see the damage to assess the claim. Disposing of damaged property before the adjuster's visit can reduce your settlement.

Get written estimates for all repairs. Your insurance company will want documentation of repair costs. Get at least two written estimates from licensed plumbers.

Ask about warranty on repairs. Any reputable plumber should provide a written warranty on parts and labor. At Deep Dive Plumbing Maryland, we stand behind our work.

Address the root cause. A burst pipe, sewer backup, or water heater failure is a symptom of an underlying condition — aging pipes, root intrusion, a failing tank. Once the emergency is resolved, schedule a follow-up inspection to understand what caused it and what can be done to prevent recurrence. Our emergency plumbing guide covers the full range of emergency scenarios and their causes.

Deep Dive Plumbing Maryland serves Calvert County and Anne Arundel County. We're a woman-owned business licensed as MD Master Plumber #98433. For plumbing emergencies, call (443) 440-0632 — we're available 24/7. You can also visit our emergency plumbing service page for more information.

Terry Foster Jr. — Maryland Licensed Master Plumber & Gas Fitter #98433

Written & Reviewed By

Terry Foster Jr.

Maryland Licensed Master Plumber & Gas Fitter · License #98433 · Plumbing Manager & Lead Technician

MD Master Plumber #98433 MD Gas Fitter #98433 20+ Years Experience

Terry Foster Jr. is a Maryland Licensed Master Plumber and Gas Fitter with over 20 years of hands-on experience in well systems, water treatment, drain & sewer, water heaters, and emergency plumbing throughout Calvert and Anne Arundel County. He is the Plumbing Manager and lead technician at Deep Dive Plumbing Maryland, founded by his wife Priscilla Foster. Every article on this site is written or reviewed by Terry based on real field experience — not generic internet research.

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