Well Pump Not Turning On? Here's What to Check First

Step 1: Check the Breaker

The most common reason a well pump stops working is a tripped circuit breaker. Well pumps are typically on a dedicated 240V double-pole breaker. Go to your electrical panel and look for a breaker labeled "Well Pump," "Pump," or "Water Pump." If it's in the middle position (tripped), reset it by pushing it fully to OFF and then back to ON.

If the breaker trips again immediately or within a few minutes, stop. A breaker that keeps tripping means the pump is drawing too much current — which could indicate a failing motor, a seized pump, or a short in the wiring. Don't keep resetting it; call a plumber.

Step 2: Check the Pressure Switch

The pressure switch is a small box (usually gray or black) mounted on or near your pressure tank. It monitors water pressure and turns the pump on when pressure drops below the cut-in setting (usually 30–40 PSI) and off when it reaches the cut-out setting (usually 50–60 PSI).

Pressure switches can fail in two ways: they can stick open (pump never turns on) or stick closed (pump runs constantly). You can test the switch by checking the pressure gauge on your tank. If the gauge reads below 30 PSI and the pump isn't running, the switch may have failed.

Step 3: Check the Pressure Tank

A waterlogged pressure tank can cause the pump to short-cycle (turn on and off rapidly) or appear to not be working at all. Tap the side of the tank — a healthy tank should sound hollow in the upper portion and solid in the lower portion. If it sounds solid throughout, it's waterlogged and needs to be replaced.

You can also check the air charge: with the pump off and pressure bled from the system, check the Schrader valve (like a tire valve) on top of the tank. A healthy tank should have an air charge of 2 PSI below the pump cut-in pressure (usually 28 PSI for a 30/50 system).

Step 4: Check for a Dry Well

During extended dry periods, some wells — particularly shallow wells or low-yield wells — can temporarily run low or dry. Signs include: pump running but no water, pump cycling rapidly, or air sputtering from faucets. If you've recently had a drought or heavy water usage, this may be the cause.

A dry well isn't necessarily a permanent problem — many wells recover within 24–48 hours. However, running a pump dry damages the motor (submersible pumps are cooled by the water flowing past them). If you suspect a dry well, turn off the pump and wait before trying again.

When to Call a Plumber

• Breaker trips immediately after resetting
• Pump runs but no water comes out
• Pump makes grinding, humming, or clicking sounds
• Pressure gauge reads 0 and pump won't start
• Water sputters with air — possible dry well or pump cavitation
• You've had no water for more than 2 hours